West Bank

Itinerary schedules for Nile Cruises are fairly standard, and a visit to the West Bank typically includes a trip to the Valley of the Kings and the Hatshepsut Temple, along with the Colosi of Memnon If you are cruising the Nile or visiting Luxor for the first time then these are a definite must do. After all, how can you come to Luxor and not see the Valley of the Kings.

I had seen these back in January, just a short time ago, so I asked Habebe if we could visit somewhere else, and I was not disappointed.

The day began at 7am with me being collected from the boat and driving to the West Bank. Of course I had made this journey before, I couldn't recall that the distance was so great last time, but it is quite a drive from the East Bank to the West, via the only bridge that serves this purpose, aptly named Luxor Bridge. As an aside, the last time I came across this bridge it was adorned with a picture of the former president of Egypt, Hosni Mubarak, this is no longer the case.

After arriving in the Valley we then went for an authentic Egyptian Breakfast - - in an alabaster store, as you would! Lo and behold, breakfast arrived, warm pitta breads, a local dish called ful which is made with beans and with a hard boiled egg and sizzling melted butter mashed into it. To say it was delicious is an understatement. There was also fresh tomatoes, and a further dish, the name of which I did not learn, and I think would definitely be an acquired taste, made up of strong cheese and seasoned with a large amount of salt, essential for locals in the heat of the summer.

After breakfast we visited another of Luxor's recently unearthed treasures, Deir Al Madina, Valley of the Workers. The workers were those that worked creating the Valley of the Kings, and once chosen to work on this prestigious project, life on the East Bank became a memory, as they were required to remain on the West Bank for the rest of their lives, along with their wives and children. This was essentially to protect the treasures of the Kings, who feared being plundered lest their secrets be told, secrets being where the treasures were buried.

The site contains excavations of the small quarters the workers enjoyed, which were very basic, two room dwellings, and evidence of a small temple, where they worshipped.

More remarkable are the tombs of the workers. The workers laboured for 8 days and then had 2 days off. On their 2 days off they laboured on their own tombs. Two of these tombs are open for visitors to enter, and they are truly a sight to behold. The paintings on the walls are vivid in colour and rich in story telling of the lives of those who created them, and their family. Habebe explained that it's possible that they used the best materials for their own tombs, and the best paints, they are certainly so well preserved that your jaw drops in awe at the splendour of the colours, preserved over thousands of years.

Habu Temple

We left the Workers Village and made the short journey to the Habu Temple. It is not known who exactly Habu was, but the Temple stands as a mighty memorial – and again a combination of richly preserved and wilful destruction evident.